Car Performance Specs

1. Place the BMW’s transmission into Park (automatic) or neutral (manual transmission) and apply the parking brake. Leave the engine running.
2. Connect a scan tool to the BMW’s diagnostic data port, which is under the dashboard just above the pedals on the driver’s side.
3. Power on the scan tool and choose “Bi-Directional Tests” from the main menu. Select “IAC Valve Actuation” from the tests menu.
4. Use the scan tool’s buttons to open and close the IAC valve. The idle speed should rise and lower without pressing the accelerator. If the IAC valve does not respond to the scan tool by raising and lowering the engine idle speed, then it is faulty.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Ensure that you have the code for your radio if it is the OEM stereo, since disconnecting the battery resets it.
2. Remove the Torx screws that hold the instrument cluster to the dash pod with a T20 Torx bit and a ratchet.
3. Protect the plastic on the gauge panel with a piece of flannel. Also lay a heavy towel on the steering column to offer more protection.
4. Slide a very thin tool (feeler gauge, thin spatula, etc.) between the cluster and the gauge pod on the edge near the center of the car. Very gently pry the cluster out far enough so that you can access the wires on the back of it.
5. Disconnect the three electrical connectors that go to the back of the cluster. The connectors are released by pressing the tabs down where they connect and pulling the wires out. Move the cluster to your workbench and lay it on a soft towel.
6. Replace the two odometer bulbs by turning and pulling them out of the instrument cluster and installing the new ones. Use a small screwdriver to help twist in the new bulbs. The odometer bulbs are beige. All of the other bulbs are black.
7. Place the instrument cluster back in the dash pod and connect the three electrical connectors. Carefully slide the cluster back into place and tighten the two Torx bits. Enter the radio code if needed and reset the clock.

1. Place a floor jack under the transmission cross member and jack the front of the Audi off the ground. Place a jack stand on each A-Arm and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Make sure the emergency brake is in place or a wheel chuck is placed behind the rear tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling backwards while you work on it.
2. Place a drain pan under the petcock of the radiator and drain the radiator fluid into the pan. Depending on the age of the Audi, the petcock may be hard to open due to exposure to road dirt and salt over the years. Use a pair of pliers but be cautious as the valve easily breaks if excessive force is used. Once the fluid drained, close the petcock.
3. Trace the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the location where the hose connects to the engine. The location is to the right of the engine crank and may be difficult to see from under the vehicle. Depending on your comfort level, you may want to complete the rest of the job from the top of the engine, not the bottom.
4. Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat cover by squeezing the two metal tabs located together on the retention band clamp. A pair of needle-nose pliers is suggested for this task. With the tabs squeezed together, pull the radiator hose off the cover.
5. Remove the two bolts that secure the cover to the engine block with a boxed-end wrench. Unfortunately, there is not enough room for a ratchet. To remove the bolts, make short quarter turns of the wrench, as that is all that is possible in the limited space. With the bolts removed, pull the cover off the engine block.
6. Remove the gasket O-ring that fits into the bottom of the thermostat cover. If the cover does not have an O-ring, inspect the engine block for it. It sometimes sticks to the engine block.
7. Pull the thermostat out of the engine block. Take note that the end with the pin sticks out of the engine block. Place the new thermostat into the engine block so it sticks out in the same manner.
8. Place the thermostat cover back over the thermostat and thread the bolts in as far as you can with your fingers. Tighten the bolts with a boxed wrench.
9. Reattach the lower radiator hose to the thermostat cover. It helps to slide the clamp backwards on the hose and then push the hose onto the cover without the clamp. Then use the pliers to squeeze the tabs and slide the clamp into place.
10. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of radiator fluid and distilled water.

1. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels by turning them 1/4 turn counterclockwise.
2. Raise the BMW up using the floor jack. Jack under the front jack point.
3. Place jack stands underneath the pinch welds of the BMW and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
4. Finish loosening the lug nuts and take the wheel off.
5. Unbolt the top and bottom brake caliper mounting bolts on the BMW and secure the caliper to the coil spring above the brake assembly with the zip ties.
6. Remove the brake pads by taping them out with a rubber mallet.
7. Place the face of the brake pad over the caliper piston and then place the c-clamp over the back of the brake pad and caliper assembly. Gently force the caliper piston back into the caliper by tightening the c-clamp.
8. Insert the new pads and reassemble the brake system. Installation is the reverse of removal.
9. Repeat steps 4 - 8 with the other front wheel.
10. Put the wheels back on, tighten the lug nuts and lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-lbs once the wheel is back on the ground.
11. Raise the rear of the BMW using the rear jack point and place the jack stands under the pinch welds in the rear of the vehicle.
12. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and then repeat steps 4 - 8 for the rear wheels.
13. Put the wheels back on, tighten the lug nuts, and lower the rear of the vehicle. Then, tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-lbs.

1. Above the radio, locate the symbol or drawing on the button that resembles a windshield. Once you have located the button push it and it should illuminate. In models from the early 90s to 1999 there will be a knob. In the 2000-2008 models, there will be a button.
2. Once you push the button, you have activated the windshield defrost option. In models from the early 90s to 1999 you will have a knob. In this case point the line on the knob towards the symbol of the windshield.
3. Once you do this, find the dial that shows the temperature of the desired air flow. With this feature, you can control the desired temperature, whether you need warm or cold air to blow on the windshield.
4. Locate the button or knob that is used to control the level of the airflow. Again, this will depend on the year of BMW. Adjust the level of airflow that you desire. You will see any fog on the window start to dissipate rapidly. If it does not start to evaporate, try using the opposite temperature that is blowing.
5. Turn the dial to the color blue which represents cold air. Any fog that is on the window should evaporate. If the problem persists, spin the dial to red. This will make warm air flow through the vents, and should solve the problem
6. problem.

1. Insert the key for your 2002 ML430 in the ignition. Do not turn the key while in the ignition. You do not need to start the car to reset your key.
2. Press and hold the Lock button displayed on your key fob while the key is inside the cars ignition.
3. Continue to hold the Lock button down, and pull the key out of your vehicles ignition. Keep holding the Lock button even after the key is out.
4. Press the Unlock button five times in a row. Make sure to keep holding the Lock button when you do this.
5. Release the Lock button to complete the resetting process.

1. Park the car and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the vehicles hood. Locate the Audis battery near the front of the engine compartment. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery terminal by loosening the cables bolt with the wrench.
2. Open the drivers door and locate the fuse panel on the lower part of the dash, under the steering wheel. Pull out the fuse labeled Airbags to fully deactivate the airbag system.
3. Unscrew the panels of your steering column with the screwdriver and carefully remove them. Locate the airbag inside the column. Loosen and remove the bolts holding the airbag in place, located behind the steering wheel, with the wrench. Pull the airbag out until you see the wires connecting it to the Audis electrical wiring harness. Unplug the airbag from the wiring harness and discard the airbag.
4. Plug the wires of the replacement airbag into the cars wiring harness. Gently push the airbag into the column, ensuring that it does not twist up as you do so. Bolt the airbag in place behind the steering wheel. Replace the column panels and secure them with the screws.
5. Open the fuse panel and reinsert the airbag fuse. Reconnect the negative battery cable to its battery terminal and tighten it with the wrench. Close the Audis hood.

1. Locate the motorcycle registration or title. Obtain the key code if available. Make sure the paperwork displays your VIN number.
2. Verify the vehicle identification number (VIN) to that on the bike. The VIN is located on the right hand side of the steering head.
3. Bring your drivers license, registration and key code to the closest BMW Motorrad dealers parts department to request a replacement key.

1. Turn the C230s headlight switch to 0. Turn off the engine and open the hood. Inspect the area behind the front lighting case. Find the black front marker lamp access cover. It is the outboard cover, closest to the fender on either side.
2. Grasp the access cover handle and turn it counterclockwise to unscrew the cover. Attached to the other side of the cover, youll find the front marker lamp. The cover doubles as the socket.
3. Pull the lamp straight out of its socket. Put on clean gloves and open the replacement lamp package. Insert it straight into the socket.
4. Attach the access cover/socket back against the rear side of the lighting case. Turn the cover clockwise to reattach it to the case. Close the cars hood.

1. Connect a OBDII-type engine code reader to your car using the connection port underneath the steering wheel area. Turn the ignition to the on position but do not start the engine. Let the code reader connect with the car computer to see if it will generate a code for a faulty mass air flow sensor. Confirm whether the sensor is actually triggering a malfunction code or not. Erase the code stored in the computer using the reader tools. Turn the car off and disconnect the code reader.
2. Raise the hood and locate the air filter box. Open the air filter box and pull out the old air filter. Use a shop vacuum to suck up all the debris, dust and dirt inside the filter box. However, do not poke the vacuum into the cavity going to the mass air flow sensor.
3. Turn off the vacuum and use a screwdriver to disconnect the hose clamp holding the intake hose to the bottom of the mass air flow sensor going toward the engine. Pull the hose off and place it clear of the sensor. Carefully disconnect the wiring to the mass air flow sensor itself. Use the screwdriver to carefully push the connection tab free if the wiring junction uses a snap-lock to connect. Place it safely clear of the sensor unit.
4. Use a screwdriver with a star-shape, or security Torx bit if the sensor is secured to the air filter box with screws having star-shape heads. Use a regular screwdriver if the screws are Phillips-head or flat-head style. Carefully loosen and remove the sensor screws and put them in a safe place to avoid losing them. Use the shop rag to carefully twist the sensor back and forth by hand until it comes free from the air filter box.
5. Move the sensor unit to a clear workspace. Put a shop rag underneath it and do not touch the sensor mechanism inside. Attach the spray nozzle to your bottle of mass air flow sensor cleaner and spray the sensor clean with five or six good sprays. Spray downward so the excess hits the rag underneath. Examine the wire inside without touching it to confirm it is clean. Let the unit air dry on the rag for 30 minutes.
6. Reattach the sensor, without touching the inside wire mechanism, to the air filter box and following the above removal steps in reverse order. Install a new air filter in the air filter box and close it up. Confirm you reconnected the sensor wiring, re-installed the sensors screws, reattach the air hoses and re-tightened the hose clamps. Check for missing tools as well. Close the hood and restart the car. Let the engine warm up and drive it to check if the sensor gives off a trouble code again. Replace the sensor unit completely if it does.

1. Sand the Mercedes with 330-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and remove the top layer of the clear coat paint. This step also removes any light scratches or nicks in the paint. Hold the sandpaper flat against the surface while sanding.
2. Use the 600-, 900- and then 1200-grit sandpaper on the surface of the Mercedes with water. Sand the entire vehicle with the lowest grade, then sand it again using the 900- and then 1200-grit paper. Keep all of the sandpaper soaking wet while sanding to prevent the buildup from scratching the surface. Using the different levels of sandpaper ensures the surface is smooth and free of scratches. Rinse the car and allow it to dry completely.
3. Cover any areas that wont be painted using masking tape and paper. Cover the tires and wheels, window glass, trim, mirrors and door handles so paint doesnt cover them. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a towel. This evaporates quickly and doesnt need to be cleaned off.
4. Spray three to five thin coats of paint onto the surface of the Mercedes. The thick layers of original primer and paint already on the Mercedes allow the new paint to be applied in thin layers with full coverage. Hold the sprayer 6 to 8 inches from the surface and use left and right strokes.
5. Apply three coats of clear coat paint on top of the new paint on the Mercedes. Wait a full 24 hours before handling the surface of the car.

1. Park the 1998 Audi A6 in a safe and level work environment. Set the emergency brake.
2. Jack up the front of the 1998 Audi A6 and put the jack stands under the designated front jacking points on both sides of the car. Then, lower the Audi onto the jack stands. Pull the jack out.
3. Move the jack to the rear of the Audi and jack it up in the air. Place the jack stands under the designated rear jacking points on both sides of the Audi. Then lower the car onto the jack stands. The whole car has to be on jack stands so that you will be able to get an accurate transmission fluid reading.
4. Crawl under the driver side of the Audi near the driver side door. Locate the transmission pan on the bottom of the transmission. Then, locate the transmission fluid fill plug on the very front of the transmission pan.
5. Slide the fluid catch pan under the transmission fluid fill plug on the front of the transmission pan. Then, remove the fill plug with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet and socket by turning the fill plug counter clockwise. Pull the fill plug out of the pan.
6. Crank the engine and let it run for about two minutes to heat up the transmission fluid. Keep the engine running while checking the transmission fluid level.
7. Stick you finger inside the fill hole and locate the fluid level. The transmission fluid should be either coming out of the fill hole when you remove the fill plug or the fluid level should be at or near the plug hole with the engine running.
8. Put the fill plug back into the pan and tighten down with the ratchet and socket. Remove the fluid catch pan from under the car. Turn the engine off and reverse the steps for jacking up the Audi to remove the jack stands.

1. Remove the screws holding the front frame over the front of the mirror glass housing using a screwdriver. Set the screws aside. Carefully pull the mirror frame away from the rest of the mirror housing.
2. Put on thick work gloves to protect your fingers. Remove any broken shards of mirror, and throw them away.
3. Heat the surface of the glass with a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the remainder of the mirror in place. Pry the glass away from the mirror housing with a putty knife.
4. Apply adhesive remover to the adhesive still present in the mirror housing. Allow the adhesive to sit for about three minutes. This will eat away the remaining glue and make it easy to remove. Wipe the adhesive away with a soft cloth.
5. Apply a line of silicone adhesive to the mirror housing frame surrounding the interior of the mirror housing. Press the replacement glass inside the frame. Hold the glass against the frame with your hands.
6. Tape the mirror in place with electrical tape. Wrap the tape around the entire mirror housing several times for stability.
7. Replace the exterior frame over the mirror glass. Screw the frame into place. Leave the tape around the mirror housing for 24 hours while the glue dries completely. Remove the tape after 24 hours. If necessary, unscrew the top mirror frame to remove all tape pieces.

1. Open the drivers side door as far as it will go and locate the triangular cover secured to the inner door panel. The cover is located directly opposite to the spot where the mirror is attached on the outside of the door.
2. Pull the access cover off the inner door panel, using your fingers.
3. Pull the wiring harness out of the inner door and disconnect it.
4. Remove the three bolts that secure the mirror to the door frame, using a socket and ratchet.
5. Pull the mirror straight out from the door to remove it.

1. Use a wrench to loosen and remove the negative battery terminal. This ensures that no electricity is going to the stereo system while you are working.
2. Use the trim removal tool to pry the trim away from the dash, starting with the area above the glovebox. Slowly work your way toward the trim above the stereo. Remove the trim piece. If you do not have a trim removal tool, wrap electrical tape around the tip of a flat-head screwdriver to remove the trim.
3. Pry up and remove the trim piece above the stereo.
4. Remove the screws on each side of the stereo using the screwdriver, then pull the stereo out from the dash.
5. Press the tab to release the large black connector and remove it from the back of the stereo.
6. Press a flat-head screwdriver against the blue tab on the connector and pry it upward to release the smaller connectors.
7. Insert the gray connector from the "AUX" input kit into the empty portion of the black connector, then replace the other connectors and lock the blue tab back into place.
8. Thread the other end of the "AUX" cable into the opening in the dash and down through the back of the dash so that it comes out in the floor area of the passenger side.
9. Insert the stereo back into the dash and replace the two screws, then replace the trim pieces. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
10. Plug one end of the 3.5mm cable into the "AUX" input jack and the other end into your audio device. Turn on the stereo and select “AUX” as the input type. You should now hear the audio from your device coming through the speakers.

1. Put the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle to the on position but dont start the engine.
2. Find the diagnostic port under the drivers side dashboard near the pedals. Plug the computerized scan tool into this port. The battery from the vehicle will automatically power on the tool.
3. Find arrows on the faceplate of the scan tool and use them to scroll through the menu until you find the Read All Codes command. Select this command.
4. Scroll through the menu again and find Clear All Codes. Select this option then wait for the service engine light to shut off.
5. Turn off the vehicle and wait five minutes. Start the engine and verify that the check engine light is still off.

1. Allow the 1.8T engine to cool for several hours so that you dont risk burning yourself. Then lift up the front end, using the jack, and put the car on a pair of jack stands. Put the drain pan underneath the front of the radiator and open the petcock on the radiator. Let all of the coolant empty into the drain pan.
2. Unbolt the thermostat housing from the bottom of the engine using a 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and socket. Pull the housing off of the engine, then make a mental note of the orientation of the thermostat. Pull the thermostat out of the housing and discard it.
3. Pull the o-ring out of the housing and install the replacement. Then install the replacement thermostat in the housing in the same orientation as the original. Bolt the housing back to the engine using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and socket.
4. Open the radiator cap. Fill the radiator with the 50-50 prediluted coolant. Lower the car off the stands using the jack. Start the car and let it run for 15 minutes with the heater set on high. Turn off the car and let it sit for an hour. Open the radiator cap and top off the radiator with the 50-50 prediluted coolant.

1. Place one of the keys in your right hand. Each key has three points to it, and you want to pick the one with the 45-degree slant at the end. Locate the slot at the bottom-right corner of the stereo, and place the key so that the flat side of the key goes towards the passenger side of the car. Push the key into the slot until it clicks into place.
2. Repeat step 1 with the second key, but flip the key around so that the flat section is pointing towards the drivers-side door.
3. Pull the inner spoke on the key on the left side of the stereo towards the drivers side door, and pull the stereo out of the dash. Unplug the wiring harnesses from the stereo using your hands, and disconnect the antenna lead as well.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first using a wrench. Engage the parking brake. Slide a drain pan underneath the gas tanks drain plug, before removing the plug and allowing all of the gas to drain out.
2. Remove the bottom seat cushion, then remove the covers on either side of the seat. Raise the rear of your car with a jack, placing a the car onto a pair of support stands. Detach the rear muffler section and driveshaft before attempting to remove the gas tank. To do this you will have to loosen the bolts holding the various components (ie. driveshaft and rear muffler section) into place. Spraying some penetrating oil onto the bolts may make it easier to remove them.
3. Detach all fuel lines connected to the tank using a specialized BMW fuel line removal tool you can find at most auto parts stores. Place another jack beneath the tank as you remove the straps holding the tank in place. The straps are secured with bolts on each end, which you will have to loosen with a socket wrench. Once youve removed all the straps and bolts, the tank will drop onto the jack.
4. Detach all fuel lines, filler hose and fuel pump from the tank while it sits on the jack. Perform any necessary repairs or replace the tank by reversing the previous steps. Finally, lower the car from the support stands and refill the gas tank.

1. Open the hood, and secure it. Look behind the headlight you are working on and find the plastic release clip behind the turn signal. Slide this clip forward, remove the turn signal and put it aside.
2. Remove the filler panel located just below the headlight assembly by removing the two screws that hold it in place using a screwdriver. Put these screws aside.
3. Find the black plastic filler panel connected to the headlight assembly, and remove the bolts that hold it into place. There will be two bolts on the top part and one or two on the bottom (most likely 8-mm bolts) depending on the year of Mercedes 300E you are working with. Place these aside.
4. Disconnect the wiring connectors at the back of the headlight assembly. Remove the headlight assembly and gently set it down.
5. Locate the plastic clips that hold the headlight lens in place. Push these clips up gently with your fingers and remove the headlight lens.